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Human Hair Structure (the cuticle)
Hair is made of different layers. The outer layer, called the "cuticle",
is made up of overlapping layers of long cells. They lie on the
surface aligned in the same direction like the tiles on a roof with
their free edges directed towards the tip. The cuticle locks in
essential moisture and protects the hair against outside elements.
A healthy cuticle is much more than just a protective layer. Much
of the shine is due to the cuticle, light reflects from their glossy
surfaces. This, together with the pigment within the cortex, gives
hair its characteristic appearance. Hair without cuticle would appear
dull and lifeless, it would dry out and become brittle.
Human hair extensions
The human hair used in the hair extension industry
comes in different qualities. In general we can say that we get
what we pay for, the lower the price of your hair extension the
less hair quality we can expect. The highest quality hair will still
have all it's cuticle perfectly aligned in the same direction. If
the cuticle scales are not facing the same direction, hair will
interlock like Velcro, this will lead to matted and tangled hair.
Cheaper hair is very often placed in an acid bath which completely
destroys the cuticle. To restore the shine this hair is covered
with a silicon layer. It looks beautiful but after a few washes
the silicon is removed and the hair matts, tangles, and becomes
dry.
European human hair does not necessarily
come from Europe. It is a group name for different hair with an
almost similar structure. Indian hair, Latin American hair, European
hair, the only exemptions are Asian hair and African hair (their
structure is very different).
Typical European human hair is relatively thin and has an oval cross-section.
This is a popular hair type for a human hair extension.
Asian hair (mostly Chinese hair) is very
often used for human hair extensions. This hair is thicker than
European hair and has a round cross-section. It is dark black.
To prepare this hair for use in hair extensions it is usually made
thinner (acid bath) and lighter. This hair is less expensive.
Indian hair has a very similar basic structure
as European hair. In general this hair type is of a very high quality.
However the method of collection is very essential. When different
types of hair are mixed with cuticles aligned in different directions
this hair becomes of a much less quality and therefore less expensive.
To prevent tangling the cuticles must be removed and the hair is
covered by silicon. Hair companies in Korea and Indonesia are specialized
in this type of hair.
Collected in the right way with all the cuticles present and in
the same direction this hair is one of the best hair types available
for use in a human hair extension.
Remi hair is a name you will hear when you
shop around for hair extensions. They claim to use only the finest
and most beautiful human hair in the world with all cuticles in
the same direction.
Synthetic hair is man-made fiber that is
made to look like your own hair. It produces a different sheen than
human hair, moves differently and therefore does not blend with
human hair. New fibers are developed continuously that are better
resistant to heat and have an appearance closer to human hair. It
comes in a large variety of colors. This hair is the most inexpensive.
Sometimes this hair is mixed with human hair and a combination is
used for a human hair extension. In most cases this is of course
not the way to do it. Both hair types need a different after care.
The majority of hair sold today is non-cuticle hair,
which is less expensive. So if you want to spend less money on your
hair extension this could be fine for you as long as you realize
that this hair will probably start matting, tangling and become
dry a lot sooner than a higher quality hair.
Overheating is one of your hair's biggest enemies,
the damage can be as deep as the cortex which is in the middle.
Be careful not to use too much heat when you use a blowdryer or
curling iron. It is best to let your hair dry naturally.
Chemical treatments like color and perm can be harmful as well.
Go to your stylist for advise, they should know what is best for
your hair. Brush your hair gentle to prevent damage. This is not
just better for your hair extensions but it will also keep your
own hair healthier.
European and Indian Remi hair is the most popular
for a human hair extension but also the most expensive.
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